Expansion audio mod/VRC7 on NES?

[stonie]

i get that two but he is using one lol, and it's not a pot, i don't think you understand what i mean, i'm talking series connection, i have to solder both resistors together. i could do it to where they are together in a line or i could solder it to a unused spot on the board, making like a v shape, connecting the two resistors on this unused spot i think it would keep it together alittle more stable then having the two resistors just hovering over the pins they are connected to. you keep showing me stuff i have already read past . anyways i was confused as to what jim was saying about shorting out one of the legs on the pot, how will i know which leg to short, and all i can find on dead bug style is just bending the leg up like a dead bugs legs and i don't really thing that is exactly what you mean. im probly wrong on that though

[Grambo]

You know what, I apologize. That video is really dumb, I didn't view it thoroughly.
First off, there's no good reason to epoxy a board to the bottom of your NES. I certainly would discourage anyone from hacking away at their NES chassis and using epoxy for this purpose.
By far the dumbest part of the video tutorial is the momentary switch... unless for some reason you feel like holding down a button on your console constantly so you can listen to expansion audio. If you're anything like me, you enjoy playing your NES with two hands.
*edit* Now that I think about it, it's probably a normally closed momentary switch used only for comparison purposes... I guess I just see this as less dumb, but more pointless now.

I really don't know how to make it more clear than this:

With a USA NES side-loader you need to do two mods.
1) Solder a 47kOhm resistor between pins 3 and 9 on the expansion port (inside the actual NES).
2) And If you want audio with actual Famicom games, and the Famicom Everdrive/N8, you have to add a 26-30 AWG wire in the 60 to 72 pin converter, between pin 46 (of the 60-pin Famicom side) and pin 51 (on the 72-pin NES side).

But I will try:

STEP 1: Make stuff look like this: (with cleaner soldering. Solder joints look cold, but I could be wrong)
http://www.retrousb.com/images/audio_mod.jpg

STEP 2: Make stuff look like this: (with less exposed wire and melted insulation)
http://rainwarrior.ca/projects/nes/nesjoint_audio_mod.jpg FOR REFERENCE ONLY. PINS ARE INCORRECT.


Also, how potentiometers work:
http://www.brighthubengineering.com/commercial-electrical-applications/47625-potentiometers-explored-construction-and-working-principles/

[Grambo]

And now I'm confused, as the pins in the step 2 pic aren't correct.

Due to the risk of handing out false information, I'm going to stop posting shit until I actually do this mod. Good day.

[stonie]

going in circles O.o, it's cool though i probly need to get a responce from jimmy, because i'm refering to when he said this "Also, remember that the wiper arm is your output, and to short one of the outer legs to the wiper arm (with a wire). For those who don't know, a potentiometer typically has three terminals, so that's the reason for shorting one terminal. Solder it in dead-bug-style, and you could avoid a stripboard altogether."

[Drakon]

Haha yeah always best to test something out before posting it.

[stonie]

i was thinking it would be cool to use a potentiometer with wires and make a hole in the back with the rf output and power port to give it a dial to mess with the values, the button is dumb for just turning it off to show the difference but with a back dial you could do that too and still be able to make adjustments as needed easily

[JimmyMz]

removed

[stonie]

ty jimmy that is exactly what i needed to hear, i havn't got the stuff i need yet because i wasn't sure how i wanted to do it, but i want to put a pot in , i also want to make it a dial on the back of the nes, which should be easier then the guy that put a lame button for his resistors on that video that keeps floating around lol

[JimmyMz]

removed

[Grambo]

Sorry stonie, I never really fully understood that your true intention and goal was to have a pot installed until after your post that followed my last one.
I'm glad that jimmy's post has cleared up the matter.

If it helps you (and/or anyone else), I'll post some very detailed pics/audio clips/schematics in this thread when I'm all done, but unfortunately it'll be about a couple weeks until I'm back home.

That "Step 2" that you posted it strictly for a Famicom to NES adapter, using offical Famicom games, and it works. Unfortunately, it isn't the same procedure due to how the Everdrive Famicon/NES and PowerPak are made. In other words, that design you linked to, needed to be tweeked to take advantage of available pins on the cartridge connector of the flashcards I just mentioned. It might be best if you got rid of that link, or labeled it as not the correct mod for the Everdrive Famicom/NES mod, so as not to confuse anyone...but it's up to you.

Yep. I always try to correct any incorrect/misleading information I post ASAP. You'll notice the video link I referenced has a rather large caption as well now.

[Drakon]

@ Drakon It's a shame your Mom didn't know about birth control...you are beyond help, and I couldn't care less if you died tomorrow. Your opinions have no foundation...I don't have issues with anyone of this website, well maybe Redifer, but not on my side. I'm willing to overlook the situation with Redifer, and be peaceful. You, on the other hand, are just too mouthy and reckless. I'm glad I'm not you.

I suppose you consider yourself a shining example of maturity?  Redifer was right, you do the exact stuff that you complain about.  This paragraph shoes your true colours.  I think what it boils down to is you really can't stand someone else showing that there may be a better solution out there than your circuits / guides / whatever.  I don't consider the stuff I make to be some ultimate version and I don't get mad and freak out at someone when he / she suggests a different way of doing it.  I can really see you enjoy being "king of the tech advice".  If someone doesn't bow before you and dares to oppose you in any way without letting you win in the end then that person gets the quoted paragraph.

As for you trying to indimidate me it's not working, I don't care that you hate my guts and want me to die etc etc.  Redifer is a really cool guy from my experience, I don't want to see someone like you pushing him away from this forum.  You state all this stuff like I'm supposed to care what you think about me, please get off your high horse and come back down to earth with the rest of us.

[JimmyMz]

removed

[robneal81]

I'm really sorry if this is a stupid question, but hopefully one of you can answer:

I just got my N8 and am using it with a Gyromite adapter.  I loaded Metroid for NES and it sounded exactly as it always has.  I then loaded the FDS Metroid and the sound was much better.

Is that the expansion audio you're talking about?  I don't think my NES is modded for that, however when I sent it out to have the RGB mod, I asked the guy to do the stereo mod as well...maybe he just added the resistor at the same time, enabling the Famicom audio???

Once again, sorry if it's a dumb question.

[stonie]

if he added teh resister then it is modded for sound, but from the pics of your converter you have yet to solder the wire to the converter to run the sound to the proper pin outs, you need to mod the converter itself as well as put a resister in the nes

[JimmyMz]

removed