Author Topic: [Help] grey screen with Everdrive N8 Pro + Famicom AV + NESRGB + NESRGB-IGR  (Read 4400 times)

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Offline Link83

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Here are new pics from the wiring.
Glad you restored the RST OUT wire.

The old cap is still in place.
Ok, but that cap is now still in the circuit on the reset line, when it isn't supposed to be if you have added it to the IGR board.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 09:03 PM by Link83 »

Offline heldma1m

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The bottom side.

Offline Link83

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The bottom side.
Where is your RST OUT wire connecting to? Its supposed to look like this:-
https://github.com/borti4938/NESRGB-IGR/blob/master/Normal-Version/Installation/AV_Famicom.jpg
With the original cap removed as per Voultar's twitter comment.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 05:26 PM by Link83 »

Offline heldma1m

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The original wiring isn't working for me with the N8 Pro and the rail to the cap is cut through. That was the reason why I haven't removed the cap.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 05:32 PM by heldma1m »

Offline Link83

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The original wiring isn't working for me with the N8 Pro.
Right, but thats possibly because of the 4.7uF capacitor, not the wiring (Either that or the N8 PRO is incompatible with the IGR board entirely, I dont have an N8 PRO to test)
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 09:09 PM by Link83 »

Offline heldma1m

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This is also happening with some original Games, so it is definitive the IGR.

Offline Link83

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This is also happening with some original Games, so it is definitive the IGR.
Yes but that can also happen because of the 4.7uF capacitor, as mentioned on twitter:-
https://twitter.com/Voultar/status/1083441586967666688

Offline heldma1m

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This is also happening with some original Games, so it is definitive the IGR.
Yes but that can also happen because of the 4.7uF capacitor, as mentioned on twitter:-
https://twitter.com/Voultar/status/1083441586967666688

Right, but one leg of the cap isn't connected on the circuit. So I think it doesn't matter. There is a cut between the reset in and the cap as you can see on this pic.

http://krikzz.com/forum/index.php?topic=9678.msg73349#msg73349

Offline Link83

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This is also happening with some original Games, so it is definitive the IGR.
Yes but that can also happen because of the 4.7uF capacitor, as mentioned on twitter:-
https://twitter.com/Voultar/status/1083441586967666688

Right, but one leg of the cap isn't connected on the circuit. So I think it doesn't matter. There is a cut between the reset in and the cap
No, it matters.

The IGR boards RST OUT line is supposed to connect to the consoles CPU reset. You have removed this wire and are now wondering why the CPU will not reset. The 4.7uF capacitor on the mainboard is on the CPU reset line and is connected to ground, the trace cut you made only isolates the reset switch for the RST IN signal to the IGR board. Voultar's twitter posts say that your supposed to remove the original 4.7uF capacitor and move it to the IGR board.

Not to sound funny but are you actually looking for suggestions/help? I only ask as it doesn't feel like your understanding the issues with the wiring and the problem with leaving the original 4.7uF capacitor in place.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 09:58 PM by Link83 »

Offline heldma1m

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Yes, I'm looking for help to have a working reset and the palette switch through the reset button. I'm a little bit confused. What I've to do. Reset out of the IGR is now connected to the GND with a 4,7u cap in between and a second wire is connected to the reset pin of the PPU. You mentioned I only have to remove the 4,7u cap from the famicom mainboard and that's it?

Offline Link83

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Yes, I'm looking for help to have a working reset and the palette switch through the reset button. I'm a little bit confused. What I've to do. Reset out of the IGR is now connected to the GND with a 4,7u cap in between and a second wire is connected to the reset pin of the PPU. You mentioned I only have to remove the 4,7u cap from the famicom mainboard and that's it?
Ok, you can try removing the AV Famicom motherboards original 4.7uF capacitor and move the second wire (RST OUT) from the PPU reset pin back to where it shows "Rst_o" on this photo (Where one of the original capacitor legs was, but make sure to use the correct hole/via as shown in the photo)
https://github.com/borti4938/NESRGB-IGR/blob/master/Normal-Version/Installation/AV_Famicom.jpg
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 09:01 PM by Link83 »

Offline heldma1m

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Ok, I will do this, but than I don't understand Voultar's second post to have a working reset.

Offline Link83

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Ok, I will do this, but than I don't understand Voultar's second post to have a working reset.
Original NES systems reset both the CPU and PPU at the same time, other models like the NES Toploader/Famicom/AV Famicom only reset the CPU, this is completely normal.

Voultar was saying that if you wanted to make the whole system reset behave exactly like the original NES models then you could add a PPU reset signal, but its not necessary for the IGR to work correctly.

Once your get the IGR working correctly you could optionally add a 'third wire' to reset the PPU as well, but there is really no need to.

...Lets just try and get the basics working correctly first!
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 06:47 PM by Link83 »

Offline Link83

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Ok I would recommend holding on for now and not changing anything yet. I noticed an error in the installation guide on github (Original capacitor is 0.47uF, not 4.7uF ) so i'm going to contact borti4938 to hopefully clarify things.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 09:56 PM by Link83 »

Offline heldma1m

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Thanks for the explanation. Now I'm understand the things better. Thank you very much for your help, I appreciate that.