General > EverDrive N8

Nes (72-pin) to Famicom (60-pin) converter mod

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Now updated with compatibility fix, thanks to GadgetUK! check out his YouTube channel!

I recently bought myself a Famicom AV to be RGB modded later on. I had the N8 NES edition, and didn't want to buy another Everdrive or trade it for a Famicom edition, so i bought a converter.
As you know, the converters don't support expansion audio or MMC5 games, but mods are available in order to restore functionality.
After following a guide, i saw that it didn't really work, so i looked for another guide.. in the end i found 4 guides saying different stuff. only one really worked, so i decided to show you guys exactly what to do. here we go:

What you need:
Soldering Iron and basic soldering skill
Wire, i recommend Kynar wire
2 10k ohm resistors (you can try out different ones, but the 10K are usually the one recommended)
Copper Tape
Phillips head screwdriver
A small file

I bought a shielded converter, and i would recommend it too.

This is the front. we will work on the back side of the converter.
Turn it around, there might be a sticker. behind the sticker there are two Philips head screws, just unscrew them.

Sadly i wasn't smart enough to take a picture before hand, so i will show you the finished mod. (as you can see i have a lot of soldering spots there, that's the main reason i wanted to make this guide)

NOTE: The pins are counted backwards on the NES side (Left to Right) and on the Famicom side (Right to left)!

For expansion audio:
Between pin 46 and 45 on the Famicom side, cut the connection by scraping it off (or any other method you know of)
Solder a resistor between pin 46 on the Famicom side and pin 54 on the NES side.
Solder a second resistor between pin 45 on the Famicom side, and the previous resistor leg near the Famicom side.
That's it!

For MMC5 game support:
Take two wires and cut them to size.
Cut the connection between pin 48 and pin 49 on the Famicom side buy scarping it off (or any other method you know of)
Solder one end of the wire to pin 48 on the Famicom side, and the other end to pin 57 on the NES side.
Solder one end of the other wire to pin 49 on the Famicom side, and the other to pin 58 on the NES side.
That's it!

Compatibility Fix
There were some reports of incompatibility with some of the games. A Krikzz forum user named GadgetUK has researched it and came up with a great solution. Even if you done seem to have any problems i would recommend doing this.

Now we need the front side of the converter (The side we didn't work on)

Take your copper tape and cut it to size, so it fills the entire PCB on the front but without touching any of the pins.
Tape it on and check for continuity with any of the pins. if there is, try to see where they have a connection and cut it.
Try to remove any bumps or air bubbles by going over it with something straight. If you cant make it 100% its ok, but i had to redo mine since it wasnt covering everything as it suppose. Try to do it as best as you can.
Next, we need to solder the tape to pin 1 on the NES side.
This is my final result (after i re-taped it, and so far so good):

If You Bought the Shielded Converter
You will need to file some of the plastic in order to close it back up.
If you taped the copper tape just make holes in the tape using the screws.
It might be not so pretty, but i don't see any other way.
This is how i did mine:

Make sure you measure the height and width of it, so you wont file too much or too little.

When you are done, close everything, connect a game with MMC5, or the Everdrive with a game that has expansion audio support, and see if everything worked. If not, you should check that everything is connected and that the connection between the pins on the Famicom side is disconnected.

Hope it helped some of you, and thanks again to GadgetUK for the fix!

Great Hierophant:
10K resistors are the recommended resistance, but I always thought that the internal audio was too low compared to the external, at least on a PowerPak. 

Thanks Barawer for the guide

--- Quote from: Great Hierophant on May 15, 2016, 01:15 AM ---10K resistors are the recommended resistance, but I always thought that the internal audio was too low compared to the external, at least on a PowerPak.

--- End quote ---

What resistor value do you recommend?

I think its a matter of testing it and seeing what you like. I didn't do much testing but 10K sound pretty good to me.
Maybe I will get a potentiometer and test some values out.

For the MMC5 support, do NES-side pins 57 and 58 need to be separated? They are joined, and I'm wondering what the purpose of two wires is?


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