I got "board" and decided to make up a PCB for the UltraCIC II.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/bjQ46PCTYou can order 3 PCBs from OSHPark for $1.50 inc shipping.
This is a slightly different approach. Instead of a switch, there is a pullup resistor and jumper than you use to set the type of CIC (or you can use the jumper leads to wire up a switch elsewhere). The resistor should be about 20K or so (it's an 0805 footprint) and the jumper should be a right angled 2 pin connector. You put a jumper cap on to set the UltraCIC to PAL (pulls pin low), and leave open for NTSC (pin is pulled high by resistor). This allows you to get the lowest profile possible on this so you are able to use it with a low profile DIP socket, without hitting the Everdrive casing and to be able to take it out easily for re-programming.
Note there is also a solder jumper pad on the board as well if you prefer that option. Solder it closed for PAL, leave it open for NTSC. The white dot on the top is pin 1.
All the components should go on the "bottom" (the side without the UltraCIC label) with the UltraCIC leads and jumper facing down from this bottom side.
Here's a copy of the schematic:

Note while pin 5 of the ATTiny would normally connect to ground when connected to a cartridge, it's left "floating" like this so you can program the chip after soldering to the PCB as you need the MOSI pin to program.
And here is what the boards look like once put together:


You will want to put some insulating tape on the top so it doesn't short to the cart shield if you are using a socket.
Edit: slight change in schematic (and OSHPark order page) to bridge both of the VDD pins for compatibility with other carts in case they aren't both connected in the cart's PCB layout. If you have already made this for the Everdrive it will work just fine.