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Messages - strider1911

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1
I think so, this company never stole anyone's money in previous projects, no reason for them to start now.

2
In case you haven't heard: Project Y aka Paprium (a new Sega Mega Drive / Genesis Beat'em up) was just updated with its own website as well as a "launch" trailer. Orders are open and game is to be shipped by September. In case anyone is interested, here is a coupon code for 10% off on ALL editions, it helps you as well as myself:

9405257

Game will come on a 80MEG cartridge (twice the size of Super Street Fighter 2!) as well as an expansion chip.

Here is the new trailer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3CTqTzkgZQ

Order the game here:
www.paprium.com

3
My DUO-R motherboard has no fuse. How can I apply this fix? My Turbo Everdrive just sits at the main screen and won't accept any gamepad input. If I flip the switch, I just get a grey screen

Just connect the wire to the INPUT leg on the voltage regulator if you don't have a fuse. Shouldn't matter much if at all. You can recognize  it by the voltage - if it is 5 volts you got the wrong leg.

4
EverDrive N8 / Re: NSF Player?
« on: April 01, 2016, 12:15 PM »
I wonder why no one made some kind of an NSF2ROM packer that can inject an NSF playlist into a rom jukebox style. There is such a program for Sega MD.

5
Off Topic / Re: EverdriveGBA
« on: March 30, 2016, 09:43 PM »
"Pro" is a great idea.

Mega Everdrive Pro
Mega Everdrive
Mega Everdrive Lite

People definitely understand that pro means higher budget version of something and lite means less features for less cost

Already thinking about pro/lite, but i really dislike idea with middle version without any prefix, it roll us back to old problems with confusions. I did not found some solution for middle, so i decide to use numbers.

I would go with:
"Deluxe/Special/Extreme" for top range,
"Pro" for mid-range,
and "Basic/Standard/Beginner" for low-range instead of "Lite", because "Lite" can confuse people with DS Lite and Gameboy Light.

So lets say Everdrive MD and Mega Everdrive become:
Mega Everdrive = "Everdrive MD Deluxe" or "Everdrive MD-X" (sound cooler)
Everdrive MD v4 (I assume one day you will have a version with faster memory?) = "Everdrive MD Pro"
Everdrive MD v3 = "Everdrive MD Basic" or "Everdrive MD Starter"

Anyway, I don't think X3-X5-X7 are good ideas.

6
News / Re: ED64 OS v2.12
« on: December 30, 2015, 08:50 AM »
Thanks. Usually Krikzz posts OS updates here, I wonder why he didn't this time.

Hopefully busy with GBA Everdrive.

7
To add to this:

If you haven't soldered ever and are not feeling up to this mod, then don't do it. Have someone with experience do it for you. It's better to find someone locally than to send it out since it's a fairly simple mod.

Depending on the type of mod used (in most cases, using 4551 as shown HERE), 5v from the 7805 should be enough. It's the same point I use for all my mods (tested over 3 hours with a TED v1). The only reason I see that 5v won't be enough would be that with this particular mod setup, that board seems to also have an RGB mod which is probably powered all from that little power point that we are relocating, or components on the console's mainboard itself is going bad.

Either way, 5v or 9v should suffice for the region mod itself. It *should* not affect your TED in any way.

FWIW, the 4551 ICs can handle upwards to 18vdc.

You should be able to eliminate the rest of the wire in step 9 with no ill effects. Either desolder it from the point off the inductor (what it looks like from the pics) or cut the wire as close as you can...that's if you want a clean look and eliminate possible problems in the future.

Prior to closing up the console, it's a good idea to test it out with the TED for several hours (yes, hours) to see if there's any freezing or loading errors. If all is good, then close up the console and enjoy!

goombakid, I should mention that when I did have a V1 it worked without needing to mod anything straight out of the box. I don't think you and I are talking about the same configuration of mods.
Both the RGB mod and the Region mod have probably too much resistance for the 7805 to keep a steady supply of regulated 5v.

8
UPDATE: Tutorial added, goombakid - you may want to pin it as sticky.

9
Many people Including me had trouble getting Turbo Everdrive 2.X to work with those console.
If you don't know, Doujindance is an eBay seller that specializes in PC Engine Duo-R consoles that he mods with RGB and Region switch (lately I've also seen Component versions).
Caveat: As per THIS LINK, be forewarned about buying premodded consoles from said eBay seller.


Disclaimer:
- This was made possible thanks to users goombakid and L-Digital, who discovered this method in the first place (as far as I know).
- I take no responsibility for damages, I only describe a method that worked for me - try it at your own risk.
- This was only tested with TED v2.1 and v2.3, it should work with all 2.X versions, but I can't be 100% sure.

(additional info, you can skip it if you just want the fix done)
If you got one of these consoles you won't be able to get Turbo Everdrive 2.X to work with it, the reason for this, if I understand correctly, is that the Everdrive consumes more power than a traditional card. Luckily, it turns out that fixing this is easier than originally thought.
Some people recommend soldering the mod board directly to the power regulators to get more stable and less reduced 5v power. I decided to use a different method under the assumption that the chips used in this type of mod can handle voltages higher than 5v, L-Digital recommended using a power adapter that supplies no more than 7.5v. I've been using 9v. People around the web are reporting these chips working fine even at 18v. For both me and L-Digital so far it seems to be working great.
I also found it way easier to solder the wire to the fuse holder since it is closer and much much easier to work with. If you prefer to do it without touching the fuse holder you can solder it to the IN pin of the 7805 power regulator instead. In other words, the fix used the INPUT voltage from the DC adapter to the IC board instead of the regulated 5v.

You will need:
- Basic soldering equpment.
- Torx 10 screwdriver like this one http://console5.com/store/torx-t10h-t10-tamper-proof-security-screwdriver.html
- Wire cutters of some kind, scissors are enough.
- Small piece of duct tape (for isolation).

1. Unplug the console from the power adapter and remove the screws at the back of the console using the Torx screwdriver, be careful when opening the console because there are 2 sets of wires connected to the top lid, one is on the right of the console and can be disconnected easily, and one is for the region switch, but it should be long enough for you to work without removing it.

2. Locate the wire that is connected to the card slot away from all the rest, like in this photo:


There is a circle indicating the correct wire. Ignore the other circle. DO NOT CUT THE WIRE IN THE INDICATED POSITION, KEEP READING.

We are going to split that wire using the cutter, it doesn't really matter where you cut it as long as you can get enough wire to reconnect it someplace else, I recommend splitting it in the middle so you will have roughly 10cm (4 inches) on each side.

3. Remove the fuse with some tool, the screwdriver should be able to easily push one of the sides from under it. The reason for this is to avoid damaging the fuse with the solder iron.

4. Take the side of the wire that is connected to the mod board, the board should be taped above the card slot. Make sure you get this right as picking the wrong side may fry your console. Strip the edge of the wire (about 1-2mm) and tin it with some solder.

5. Add some solder to the fuse holder as well, you should pick the side that is further away from the DC plug connector so that in case of a power surge the fuse will protect the mod board. Make sure only to add solder from the outside of the fuse clamp so that you can easily re-insert the fuse after you are done.

6. Solder the wire you stripped directly to the fuse holder, if you do everything right it should look like this:


7. Re-insert the fuse.

9. I recommend you cover the tip of the other side of the exposed wire with some tape or even hot glue if you can, just to make sure it won't short out on one of the components. After doing this, mine looks like this:


10. Close the console up, you are done!

Enjoy!

10
Thank you so much man, Also thanks to Goombakid as well as Krikzz.

11
*UPDATE*

I decided to bite the bullet.
I didn't like the whole "short wire 5v" idea, it may be healthier for the hardware, but I don't like the thought of it always barely working.
So I soldered the power cord directly to the fuse (easier to do compared to the 7805), which means that the IC gets 9v in my case. And...
IT IS WORKING GREAT!

The Everdrive (2.3) has been running a game for the past hour without any issues.

Krikzz, could the 9v damage the everdrive?

PS - Later I will post a noob tutorial, I think many people will find that useful.

12
L-Digital,
Here is a picture, if I understood you correctly then I need to cut the wire marked in the photo and connect the end that goes to the cart slot to one of the 7805 power regulators marked below?
Which one of them? does it matter? I can check with a volt meter which leg has 5v and which is 9v.

I'm going to try 9v and not 7.5. I see no reason why, I assume this is the 4551 method that Doujindance uses?

Thanks to anyone that can help me with this.


13
Great, will you please supply photos?

14
Off Topic / Re: the next everdrive?
« on: September 08, 2015, 04:28 AM »
GBA Everdrive seems to be the the most logical way to go, that console has a huge fan base and unlike the Neo Geo, this will be way cheaper to produce so it will be affordable to more people.

15
Off Topic / Re: I'd love to see a Virtual Boy Everdrive
« on: September 05, 2015, 06:22 PM »
You guys are insane.

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