General > Turbo EverDrive

[NOOB GUIDE] TurboED (v1 and v2.X) + Doujindance-modded PC Engine DUO-R

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strider1911:
Many people Including me had trouble getting Turbo Everdrive 2.X to work with those console.
If you don't know, Doujindance is an eBay seller that specializes in PC Engine Duo-R consoles that he mods with RGB and Region switch (lately I've also seen Component versions).
Caveat: As per THIS LINK, be forewarned about buying premodded consoles from said eBay seller.


Disclaimer:
- This was made possible thanks to users goombakid and L-Digital, who discovered this method in the first place (as far as I know).
- I take no responsibility for damages, I only describe a method that worked for me - try it at your own risk.
- This was only tested with TED v2.1 and v2.3, it should work with all 2.X versions, but I can't be 100% sure.

(additional info, you can skip it if you just want the fix done)
If you got one of these consoles you won't be able to get Turbo Everdrive 2.X to work with it, the reason for this, if I understand correctly, is that the Everdrive consumes more power than a traditional card. Luckily, it turns out that fixing this is easier than originally thought.
Some people recommend soldering the mod board directly to the power regulators to get more stable and less reduced 5v power. I decided to use a different method under the assumption that the chips used in this type of mod can handle voltages higher than 5v, L-Digital recommended using a power adapter that supplies no more than 7.5v. I've been using 9v. People around the web are reporting these chips working fine even at 18v. For both me and L-Digital so far it seems to be working great.
I also found it way easier to solder the wire to the fuse holder since it is closer and much much easier to work with. If you prefer to do it without touching the fuse holder you can solder it to the IN pin of the 7805 power regulator instead. In other words, the fix used the INPUT voltage from the DC adapter to the IC board instead of the regulated 5v.

You will need:
- Basic soldering equpment.
- Torx 10 screwdriver like this one http://console5.com/store/torx-t10h-t10-tamper-proof-security-screwdriver.html
- Wire cutters of some kind, scissors are enough.
- Small piece of duct tape (for isolation).

1. Unplug the console from the power adapter and remove the screws at the back of the console using the Torx screwdriver, be careful when opening the console because there are 2 sets of wires connected to the top lid, one is on the right of the console and can be disconnected easily, and one is for the region switch, but it should be long enough for you to work without removing it.

2. Locate the wire that is connected to the card slot away from all the rest, like in this photo:


There is a circle indicating the correct wire. Ignore the other circle. DO NOT CUT THE WIRE IN THE INDICATED POSITION, KEEP READING.

We are going to split that wire using the cutter, it doesn't really matter where you cut it as long as you can get enough wire to reconnect it someplace else, I recommend splitting it in the middle so you will have roughly 10cm (4 inches) on each side.

3. Remove the fuse with some tool, the screwdriver should be able to easily push one of the sides from under it. The reason for this is to avoid damaging the fuse with the solder iron.

4. Take the side of the wire that is connected to the mod board, the board should be taped above the card slot. Make sure you get this right as picking the wrong side may fry your console. Strip the edge of the wire (about 1-2mm) and tin it with some solder.

5. Add some solder to the fuse holder as well, you should pick the side that is further away from the DC plug connector so that in case of a power surge the fuse will protect the mod board. Make sure only to add solder from the outside of the fuse clamp so that you can easily re-insert the fuse after you are done.

6. Solder the wire you stripped directly to the fuse holder, if you do everything right it should look like this:


7. Re-insert the fuse.

9. I recommend you cover the tip of the other side of the exposed wire with some tape or even hot glue if you can, just to make sure it won't short out on one of the components. After doing this, mine looks like this:


10. Close the console up, you are done!

Enjoy!

goombakid:
To add to this:

If you haven't soldered ever and are not feeling up to this mod, then don't do it. Have someone with experience do it for you. It's better to find someone locally than to send it out since it's a fairly simple mod.

Depending on the type of mod used (in most cases, using 4551 as shown HERE), 5v from the 7805 should be enough. It's the same point I use for all my mods (tested over 3 hours with a TED v1). The only reason I see that 5v won't be enough would be that with this particular mod setup, that board seems to also have an RGB mod which is probably powered all from that little power point that we are relocating, or components on the console's mainboard itself is going bad.

Either way, 5v or 9v should suffice for the region mod itself. It *should* not affect your TED in any way.

FWIW, the 4551 ICs can handle upwards to 18vdc.

You should be able to eliminate the rest of the wire in step 9 with no ill effects. Either desolder it from the point off the inductor (what it looks like from the pics) or cut the wire as close as you can...that's if you want a clean look and eliminate possible problems in the future.

Prior to closing up the console, it's a good idea to test it out with the TED for several hours (yes, hours) to see if there's any freezing or loading errors. If all is good, then close up the console and enjoy!

strider1911:

--- Quote from: goombakid on December 23, 2015, 07:29 PM ---To add to this:

If you haven't soldered ever and are not feeling up to this mod, then don't do it. Have someone with experience do it for you. It's better to find someone locally than to send it out since it's a fairly simple mod.

Depending on the type of mod used (in most cases, using 4551 as shown HERE), 5v from the 7805 should be enough. It's the same point I use for all my mods (tested over 3 hours with a TED v1). The only reason I see that 5v won't be enough would be that with this particular mod setup, that board seems to also have an RGB mod which is probably powered all from that little power point that we are relocating, or components on the console's mainboard itself is going bad.

Either way, 5v or 9v should suffice for the region mod itself. It *should* not affect your TED in any way.

FWIW, the 4551 ICs can handle upwards to 18vdc.

You should be able to eliminate the rest of the wire in step 9 with no ill effects. Either desolder it from the point off the inductor (what it looks like from the pics) or cut the wire as close as you can...that's if you want a clean look and eliminate possible problems in the future.

Prior to closing up the console, it's a good idea to test it out with the TED for several hours (yes, hours) to see if there's any freezing or loading errors. If all is good, then close up the console and enjoy!

--- End quote ---

goombakid, I should mention that when I did have a V1 it worked without needing to mod anything straight out of the box. I don't think you and I are talking about the same configuration of mods.
Both the RGB mod and the Region mod have probably too much resistance for the 7805 to keep a steady supply of regulated 5v.

goombakid:
Hmmm, and I thought the v2 had lower power consumption. In any case, I stand corrected. Perhaps the 9v is the best bet for those with v2.

nesfreak:
I have TurboED v1 and a Doujindance modded pc-engine from 2012, RGB, region mod, recap and new laser. Haven't noticed any problems with my TurboED tho, is there certain games that doesn't work properly?

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